Unfortunately, a bouillabaisse special ($23) fell flat. Although the tomato broth let the rockfish, rainbow trout and shrimp shine, accompanying red pepper rouille crostinis didn’t have the spicy cayenne kick we were hoping for.
Rivera in downtown Los Angeles. A couple of blocks from L.A. Live and its chain restaurants is Rivera, the distinguished Latin restaurant from French-trained, New Mexico-raised John Sedlar. I love sliding onto a seat at the bar or at the massive square communal table and ordering this and that from an eccentric and exciting menu that includes dishes from Mexico, Spain and Latin America. Sedlar is that rare chef whose cooking is incisive and sensual. His wild mushroom carpaccio, tortillas florales, kurobuta pork chop napped in black molé and puerco pibil (pork shoulder braised in banana leaf) all figured into a terrific fall meal. Rivera is always changing as Sedlar redefines the menu. The possibilities are almost endless, and each visit can be entirely different depending on which menu (or room) you choose. Lately, he’s added dishes from St. Estèphe, his late, great modern New Mexico restaurant. Playa, his more casual L.A. restaurant, may be more lively, but for the best of Sedlar’s cooking, for me, it’s Rivera.
Foccaccia bread is served with your meal and it was quite good, although not as tough as Ive become accustomed to. I asked our server if they made the bread at the restaurant or if it was from one of the local artisans. I was very surprised when she told me it was a frozen, restaurant supplier variety. I wouldnt have guessed it, but I also wouldnt have guessed they would be using the frozen variety with so many trying to eat and prepare local.
2. Pour oil into a 6-qt. Dutch oven to a depth of 2″; heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350°. In a shallow dish, whisk together milk and eggs; put flour into another shallow dish. Season fish with salt and pepper. Working with one filet at a time, dip fish in flour, shake off excess, and then dip in egg mixture and shake off excess. Return filets to flour; transfer to a rack over a baking sheet. Working in two batches, fry fish until golden brown, 5-6 minutes, then drain on paper towels. To serve, divide fish between 4 plates; sprinkle almonds on top. Whisk sauce and spoon over fish. Garnish with parsley; serve with lemon slices.
TUCSON – Starting today and every Wednesday leading up to Arizona’s Centennial Birthday on February 14, we will be looking at Arizona’s 100 year culinary tradition on “Let’s Make a Meal,” sharing recipes that demonstrate the best Arizona has to offer.
Some of them are unrepeatable, like the subtle Indian feast a friend cooked or the dinner for more than 100 outside at one long table in front of a historic chateau in France. Or the wild crayfish that a Rioja producer pulled out of a pond next to his winery and cooked up for lunch. The number 10 doesn’t begin to cover the best meals I’ve had this year. After making lists and then other lists, here’s my attempt to recount the year’s most memorable, in no particular order.